Building a T-Slots Battlebox
 

The Stuff in a box

The plates and hardware came in a box with all of the individual parts in bags with the part number and quantity clearly marked. 
Figure 1.
The Extruded Bars
This scared me the way the bottom was smashed...

Figure 2.
But, the way they were packed, it was not an issue. There was no damage to the bars.
Figure 3.
The Plan
Get out the hand drawing and cross your fingers... Let's try to make a simple bracing joint.

Figure 4.
The First Joint 
Excellent! This went together with little effort. T-Slots Rocks!

Figure 5.
One Side is OK
So far so good.

Figure 6.
Moving Forward
Here is a complete corner. This stuff is very strong!

Figure 7.
Yes, very strong!
Figure 8.
The Doors 

Wow, I measured it right, and they fit perfectly!
Figure 9.
The Latches and Hinges 

Yes, even more perfection.
Figure 10.
The Dry Fit went well. Now for the 1/4" Lexan.
Figure 11.
The Lexan 

Yes, I know it's not Lexan... Lexan, Hyzod, it's all Polycarbonate. Remember measure twice, cut once.
Figure 12.
First piece ready to install.
Figure 13.
One end done!
Figure 14.
Now to install the floor. I used a high quality 1/2" plywood. 3/4" would be better, but I am trying to keep the weight to a minimum. No steel on the floor yet. I will add it later when I have more time.
Figure 15.
I attached the plywood to the T-Slots frame every 12" using a 4 hole bracket.
Figure 16.
Here is a view of the brackets from the bottom.
Figure 17.
Got some help with the wrench twisting from my son James
Figure 18.
Isometric view of the box.
Figure 19.
Another view.
Figure 20.
To finish the installation of the Lexan panels we moved the box to it's side. All panels are installed except the side that is facing the ceiling. This actually went pretty well considering all of the nuts and bolts involved.
Figure 21.
Bottom view.
Figure 22.
Isometric view of the completed assembly!
Figure 23.
Another view.
Figure 24.
OK, to work more on the floor of the box I removed it from the T-Slots frame. It was pretty easy, just unbolt it, lift it up, then tilt it so it could slide right out the bottom. A couple coats of white paint should do.
Figure 25.
Another view.
Figure 26.
Floor is painted and waiting for the protective frame.
Figure 27.
The Protective Wall

I purchased some precut wood pieces to go around the bolt heads, and increase the thickness of the plywood to accept the screws that will hold the protective frame in place.
Figure 28.
Camera shy Beth helps out with the painting.
Figure 29.
The metal frame will be used to mount a 6" high 1/8" Lexan protective shield. This is meant to protect the 1/4" Lexan sheets from the robots. I used 1/8" because it's what I had laying around. 1/4" would probably work better.
Figure 30.
A close-up of the assembly of the frame.
Figure 31.
The finished frame installation.
Figure 32.
Attaching the 6" Lexan protective wall.
Figure 33.
Yes! More help from James!
Figure 34.
The protective wall is finished!
Figure 35.
Some colored tape for defining the starting squares. This was later removed as some robots were using scoops that scrapped along the surface so closely that it would catch on the tape. I will paint it on when I have more time.
Figure 36.
Reinstalling the floor. No problem...
Figure 37.
The truly finished (for now) battlebox!
Figure 38.
Another view. It's beautiful, yes?
Figure 39.
Close-up of the protective wall.
Figure 40.
Another view.
Figure 41.
Yet another view.
Figure 42.
The finished Battlebox -- and ahead of schedule! (Three days before the event.) Now to work on my robots...
Figure 43.